Fixed blade Vs Folder on general hiking trails.

 Fixed blade Vs Folder on general hiking trails.

 I was just asked about this subject, so I thought, why not? 

Example of:

Sturdy locking folder

Example of one big Ma Fa Knife! Way too big for general hiking! But in the environment behind me, no problems!

On well walked trails, long or short, ie a day walk or a weeks worth of walking and camping, one can easily take a folding locking knife and this will be more than adequate for the job. On such a hike there is Zero reason to leave the trail and venture into unknown territory unless you are stupid. If one isn't stupid and they know the region like the back of their hands and are with at least one other person who also knows the region, then sure, you could leave the main trail for some exploration/shortcuts etc. then one would maybe carry something more substantial than a folding knife. However, simply waking major trails, a folder is lightweight and if well-made more than good enough.

If one is paranoid about taking just a folder, let me tell you that I have easily with a regular Swiss Army Knife carved and made a hardwood fish spear that enabled me during the early evening (at darkness) to spear a fish for my breakfast the next morning. I did not have a fixed blade with me and this was no big deal.

Carrying a lightweight but sturdy folder (in good service, ie well oiled and maintained) will make you journey easier on all fronts, less weight means more distance, more food one can carry and hence move faster.  Don't get hung up with the armchair survival thing. Taking big fixed blades (I do indeed but it is generally only in seriously wild places- off the track or with little chance of seeing other walkers or even hunters). Even a small fixed blade will be approximately twice the closed length of a folder, with very little gain I feel.  Remember on major walking trails one is generally in my experience not supposed to be cutting down trees to cross rivers, or building wooden huts etc. One generally carries a fuel stove too.  Of course where I would deviate from this rule is as I said above, if one leaves regularly walked paths. OR there are many members in your group and more gear can be carried hence one could take a larger knife but ONLY if there is reason to use one. 

Such a reason could be you are walking when it will be very wet and one may need to hack into material to start a fire if necessary. A larger fixed blade and or a folding saw would be invaluable. I have found myself in this situation many times, on dusk, in the rain carving off wet bark to get at some dry wood to start a fire in an alpine hut. I could have used a folder but a fixed blade was much better (around 6" ) to do the job in a more rough and tumble way, quickly in other words to keep everyone happy LOL.

All I'm saying is that think carefully about what knives you carry with you, or any gear for that matter, there is nothing worse than part way through a hike, you realise you are just carrying too much gear and no idea LOL! Better to save yourself any embarrassment.

BCT

Muela Tanto 19W A fantastically great knife for the cost. With one caveat which is quick fixable and worth doing IMHO

 Molibdeno Vanadio

Muela Tanto 19W tactical tanto, synthetic grip, lanyard hole, full 5mm thick tang, flat Sabre grind. Clearly I could easily cut up the onions and deadly chilli peppers for the evenings BBQ chilli chicken!

What sort of knife steel is this?

Ok, so firstly, let me say where one would encounter such a knife steel designation. A lot of Spanish made knives may carry this designation upon their blades. Simply speaking it just means a knife steel which contains both the elements Molybdenum and Vanadium.

So which steels contain those elements in significant percentages?

Assuming Spanish knife makers are actually using Spanish made stainless steel (Spain is one of the worlds biggest manufacturers of Stainless steels); we can take some data from the company Acerinox in Spain, the following information:

We can see that steels such as EN 1.4116/420 MOV (X50CrMOV15) although Vanadium is only present as trace percentages (0.1-0.2%) , 

EN1.4116 is NOT a 440 series stainless. There is no vanadium in the 440 series of stainless steels.

Lets have a look at a typical example here, the Muela Tanto 19W a 5mm thick full tang injection moulded synthetic rubber grip tactical knife from the tactical knife product line of Muela in Spain. Past 2020, various versions can be found of the knife sporting different steel designations, some with the numbers 440 and Molibdeno Vanadio, an impossible designation-unless a proprietary alloy (it could be possible Muela is a BIG company). There have also been various blade geometries available, ie sabre flat grind or a hollow ground blade. This one shown here sports a sabre flat grind, feels hefty and strong and is certainly very grippy and comfortable to hold.

It came out of the box, deadly, deadly sharp, with a very well stitched cow hide and partial ballistic nylon scabbard.

What is the HRC of this knife because Muela do not specify on their website?

Well it could be almost up to 59 (58.8) if there is any contaminating Nitrogen but if zero Nitrogen then we can expect a HRC of approximately HRC of 56.

For the stainless steel, 1.4110, generally there is no Vanadium in this martensitic stainless steel, although higher in carbon content than 1.4116, so Molibdeno Vanadio is NOT 1.4110 stainless steel either.

If we settle upon 1.4116 what is the actual compositional range*?

These are the facts as apposed to hearsay about this stainless steel.

For example: Muela is  one of the well-known Spanish manufacturers and is not specifying exactly the steel composition, of 1.4116 as in it could have some Nitrogen? which if it did, it would contribute to the end characteristics of the alloy. It has been shown that a very small addition of the element, Nitrogen (N) can increase the hardness, toughness and corrosion resistance of ordinary 1.4116**.

So at the end of the day the "Molibdeno Vanadio" might in fact be a modification of the the 440 series. What do I base this upon? Well Aitor another very well known manufacturer always said their steel was an improvement (so in other words a modification) of 440C and they too list Mo and vanadium as key elements. Who knows maybe it is, so unless you're fluent in metallurgy and in Spanish and happen to work within the Spanish knife making industry, especially selling raw material to these knife makers, then you'll never know!

It seems if it was simply 1.4116 then it would be marked as such is my guess. At the end of the day, it shouldn't be a  name/designation which halts the purchase of something one likes, it should be because one likes it and if it also performs well in its given role then the steel could be XYZ for all I care. 

Besides that, I'll bet most can't tell the difference anyway unless they shove a sample inside an SEM for some EDAX, something I did on a regular basis for almost ten years and it was always a surprise (sometimes pleasant, sometimes not) for the clients!

The difference I find between Aitor knives and Muela, is that Muela knives always come with a quality evenly ground edge, where as Aitor, unfortunately now, have a sloppy edge finish. At least on the last two classic Aitor knives I have purchased, and you forget about contacting them because they are a faceless company as well and never answer any emails or facebook inquiries. Although to be fair I have found this with a great many companies who have become "big", customer service is not a strong point let alone a seriously undertaken activity. All that being said, the quality here with respect to the Muela Tanto 19W is good. The only negative point is that there are no keyways upon the tang to stop the slippage of the injection moulded handle. Or that they simply let out a batch of knives without an end metal rivet (as seen on my very old but trusty Ontario Spec Plus-where a brass rivet makes it impossible for the grip to slip (I think there are no keyways on this knife's tang either. As mentioned, I'll insert, either a piece of fibreglass tubing or an off cut from an aluminium hunting arrow and this will render the grip immovable. 

27-11-23 Updated!!

Well as the to mystery steel they used, all I can say is that it is very very good and holds an unbelievable edge for sure as i have only used this knife as a "beater" in the worst conditions possible, like for example cleaning dirty wet bark from fallen timber and hacking into various seasoned hardwoods. It might pay in the future to put a better handle upon this superb blade at some point in the future? yes i did indeed place a fibreglass arrow shaft into the lanyard hole and this will make it near impossible (as nothing is impossible) for the grip to come off the tang.

Some quick metallurgy:

Now as to the metallurgy of 1.4116 read about some scientific facts, not some YouTube non scientific gossip.

**

Effect of a nitrogen addition on mechanical and corrosion properties of 1.4116 martensitic stainless steel

• C. Bourgin, E. Chauveau and A. Arnaud
• • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1051/metal:2006153
  • Published online by Cambridge University Press: 22 February 2006

Abstract

High carbon and chromium martensitic stainless steels are used when hardness and corrosion resistance are essential. Their mechanical properties and cold workability are impaired by large Cr carbides formed during solidification. This can be overcome by a nitrogen addition as a substitute for high carbon. Results are reported about 0.080% N addition to a 1.4116 grade (C=0.47%, Cr=14.5%, Mo=0.5%). The new grade offers a better combination of hardness, toughness and corrosion resistance than the three higher carbon grades 1.4109, 1.4112 or 1.4125.

FKMD FX446ODS Review Fox knives Italy Liner lock Tough as!

Here is my my detailed field review of the Fox Knives FKMD FX-446ODS. Made in Italy, one year warranty for defects in materials and or workmanship, for original owner and purchased from an authorised reseller. 



The liners are approximately 1.5mm thick 420 stainless.

I did not mention this in the video. Also available in an identical but non-serrated form, the FX-446GR FX-446B and FX-446OD (that's gray/grey black and Olive green versions)



BCT

FKMD Folding Shovel FX-0171111 Fantastic!

 FKMD Folding Shovel FX-0171111 Fantastic!

 It may also come as no surprise that a reliable folding shovel is a definite piece of kit to have in anyone's car or 4WD because there will come a time when one does get their vehicle bogged; that's a fact, especially if you are pushing the boundaries of exploration. It doesn't matter how experienced you are, it will happen if you go outback enough. 

But of course there is about a bizillion things one can do with a good folding shovel; such as it being a necessary tool for geologists exploring new areas, gold fossicking, gemstone hunters, campers, hunters, not to mention military personnel and those wandering into desert areas (digging for water if it comes to that).

I've had my eye on the FKMD FX-0171111 for some years now actually and to be honest I don't know why I never got one before now. Maybe I've beeb stuck in the old wooden handled screw lock shovel thing since I was a kid (I'll tell you all about that in the upcoming video LOl!).

The FKMD folding shovel model number FX-0171111 is made from 420 Stainless and glass reinforced nylon. It's built tough (for crazy gold fossickers!)

The blade is riveted onto the pivoting hinge, not cheaply spot welded as seen in so many "el cheapo" folding shovels. Matte black, goes without saying on this FKMD product.

The folded shovel is extremely compact and can easily be carried on a pack in it's 1000 Denier Molle compatible pocket (which by the way is very well stitched). This is far more compact than many of the folding shovels I have come across.  Glass reinforced nylon is extremely strong, cast you minds back to the days when skateboard trucks were made from this stuff and the abuse they can take LOL!

Here I'm using a Deuter Guide 35 plus, an extremely versatile guiding pack for climbers etc. This pack whilst not a Molle sewn pack can quickly accommodate mille items by threading climber's tape horizontally along the packs webbing loops. This way I could carry the FKMD FX-017111 easily into the wilds. But of course if one owns a Molle specific pack, then no problems with this shovel either.

Glass fibre reinforced nylon, light but strong and rigid in design.

3 positions (see below) are available for the shovel blade and are easily set with any tools or rotating screw-like rings. Just push in the black button and it clicks into place.

Digging in stoney mud, no problems and the mud did not clog up the mechanism either. The shovel was easily washed clean in a river. I also discovered the shovel can be used a a makeshift paddle too!

Rocky/stoney desert like soil, no problems, the 420 blade has been appropriately heat treated in order to take this kind of abuse with the shovel edge hitting hard igneous stones and remaining perfectly intact along its edge. The blade coating is extremely hard wearing and I thought at first it would peel off like not tomorrow in this type of soil but no chance!

And finally for those ever on the look out for some other tactical advantage of such a shovel, let me just say that (and I'm just saying that's all), doesn't it just look like a bit of a tonfa with a blade attached?

Stick around for the upcoming video field review but let's face it, if you haven't already got one in the boot of your vehicle then this is one to seriously consider.

BCT

Specs of the FKMD FX-0171111 Folding Shovel at a glance:

60cm fully open

27cm closed

Blade positions

90 degrees

135 degrees

and 180 degrees blade position

1000 Denier Nylon sheath-fully Molle compatible.

NATO Code (NUC-NSN)5120-15-205-0607

Plus you can also see it here too.

FKMD Predator II Liner Lock FX-446 ODS LAWKS Made in Italy In depth Review.

 FKMD Predator II Liner Lock FX-446 ODS LAWKS Made in Italy

My trusty FX-446GR in the field. But wait there's more!......

There are knives for looking at and knives for everyday use and hard use.

 

The FKMD series of liner lock folders featuring the added safety of the LAWKS system are just the thing to satisfy this requirement. I have owned now for over 3 years the FKMD Predator II FX-446 GR non serrated liner lock folder in N690, 420J and Forprene construction. This knife is serving me well on a daily basis. Strong construction, with a semi closed back. This type of construction (semi closed back) produces the most stable configuration of a basic liner lock. Why? Because, there is simply more material in contact with the liners, ie a great surface area of contact, instead of just regular standoffs as seen on so many liner locking knives. The semi closed back as a consequence of physics can provide a better lateral stability for the construction. This knife also features a thick stainless steel pin at the butt end for the attachment of a lanyard. The stop pin too, for the blade is very thick, along with the liners and this construction clearly of the years of use has held up very well. Other than a regular cleaning and or some addition of light gun oil to the moving parts, the knife is basically maintenance free. The Forprene scales are impervious to water and extremely wear resistant. They may not look great but this is a WORKING KNIFE built tough with an excellent blade shape.

 

There is of course a reversible pocket clip.

After 2 years the FX-446 has not required any major service. There is zero blade wobble, the blade indent is still working just fine like the day I got it.

Working at height one needs needs to sometimes cut ropes or tapes in a hurry; or sections of carpet which is often used for "sacrificial" rope protectors. The best way to achieve this using a blade with a serrated edge. To this end the Predator II (FX-446 ODS) was the obvious choice. Deadly effective serrations, plus the same robustness and reliability of the FX-446 GR non-serrated version

Now after being convinced of its’ (FKMD FX-446) durability, I have got the same version but with a partially serrated  blade (FX-446 ODS) as for me I find serrations upon such a knife an extremely useful addition for instantly slicing through any cordage, small-medium diameter ropes; in fact rapidly cutting (let’s face it a knife is for CUTTING) most things. FKMD know how to make proper serrations. Yes, there are serrations and there are serrations! For serrations to work properly and stay sharp for a very long time (longer than the plain edge of a blade), they must be ground at exacting angles and be designed in such a way they alternate with shallow vs deep grooves. Physics dictates that the serrated edge binds and has a greater surface areas in contact with rounded or fibrous materials, hence a more rapid cutting than a regular plain edge.

 

Both knives are made with Böhler's N690 Cobalt enhanced Stainless steel.

The FX-446ODS is a properly (well-thought out) designed liner lock for the professional. 

Anyone wanting to reverse the pocket clip or fiddle with adjusting the blade retention etc., well the FX446 series comes with a dedicated Torx head wrench for such jobs. Personally, I have never in almost 4 years had to adjust anything in my FX-446GR except put a little gun oil on the moving parts (and of course keep the folder clean).

There is nothing woosy about the FKMD FX-446 series of liner lock folders.

This RED lever is the LAWKS Safety lock (shown "disengaged" here). Note big thick stop pin.

View of rear lanyard pin

It is important to note here the "roughened surface treatment" to the contact surface of the tang in order to prevent liner slippage under load. This feature although small and maybe goes unnoticed plays an important role in providing a super solid lockup without liner slippage which can sometimes happen under load for liner lock type knives.

Extremely secure grip due to scale pattern and scale/knife body design. Spear point blade featuring a big swedge.

LAWKS Safety lock shown in "Engaged" position, preventing any movement away from the tang. (see above note) and also note the relatively thick 1.5mm liners!

Deadly serrations makes cutting rope and cords dead easy.

The FKMD FX-446 ODS has  wicked serrated Böhler N690 blade, teflon coated (it is extremely wear resistant- see my notes on my other FX-446GR). The serrations are in a 1:2:1 pattern, wide shallow, wide pattern, means super fast cutting power and long sharp life. The OD (Olive Drab) Forprene scales may not look like your grandfather's pocket knife but they are no nonsense, impervious to water, super resistant to abrasion and basically unbreakable.

Lets look more closely at what my almost 4 year old FX-446GR looks like compared to a new (2 week old FX-446ODS

Very little wear in reality of the Teflon Idroglider (it's extremely wear resistant) coating on the blade (Fig. B). So I do not expect the new ODS to look much different as the years move on.

EDC or whatever, the FX-446ODS is a reliable folder

Some say the Forprene scales make these knives look cheap. I totally disagree. It's not about making the FX-446 GR or the FX-446ODS look cheap, it's about professional features, that the Forprene delivers; a non slip grip, impervious to moisture and greases, dust and dirt, resistant to knocks and abrasion, resistant to cracking and or breakage or damage from accidental dropping. And speaking of dropping, the FKMD FX-446ODS like the FKMD FX-446 GR has a very thick stainless steel pin at the rear of the knife for which a lanyard can be attached to prevent knife loss. This pin only further serves as just another point of reinforcement for the two sides of the knife.

The blades are released via a thumb stud, no fancy flipper. Why isn't there a flipper? Well a flipper would serve little purpose on such a knife but only get caught up on one's clothing/causing accidental opening of the blade. The thumb stud does what it's supposed to do and that is enable one handed opening.

When I see these liner locks taking the name Predator, like the Predator fixed blade series from FKMD, I expect the same robustness in these liner locks and think military tough.

Do yourself a favour, if you are after a well-built (Made in Italy) tough liner lock, that cuts, look no further than the FKMD FX-446 line. 

FKMD FX-446 GR (gray scales non serrated)

or indeed the 

FKMD FX-446 ODS (Olive Drab Serrated) version.

You can see these models here as well along with all of the other series in the FX-446 line up.

These folders are meant to be used and can take some serious use too!

Full field review of the FKMD FX-446ODS coming soon!

BCT

 

 

XTAR D30 1600 SCUBA DIVERS VIDEO LIGHT PREVIEW

 XTAR D30 1600 SCUBA DIVERS VIDEO LIGHT (P)REVIEW New release!

XTAR D30 1600 Depth Rating

The internals are kept water tight to 100m via 2 O-rings (the D30 1600 came well greased on these O-rings). The operation manual suggests NOT to remove the grease from the head of the torch and I would totally agree here.

The small white colored piece of plastic above the on/off switch is an indicator of remaining battery power. 35% and above this will light green and stay on. When battery power is between 10% and 35% a RED light will be shown and less than 10% the RED light will flicker (meaning, get charging that battery asap!).

Note whilst this torch/video light can operate from many different batteries, XTAR does not recommend one does this with the lower capacity batteries such as the CR123A  (X2) and (X2) 16340 batteries. (ok for 18650's, 18700's, 26650's)

Basic operation of the XTAR D30 1600

The switching mechanism is of professional design meaning it is a "magnetic switch" which means there is zero contact between the switching mechanism and the inner workings. This type of switch for an underwater dive torch/video light is IMHO the best type as it reduces the need for unnecessary seals.

The image above shows the switch in the "Locked" position to prevent accidental operation. Turning the switch clockwise past a small indent, will put the switch in a pre operation mode. One press at this point will automatically operate the D301600 at it's maximum capacity of 1600 lumens (for up to 2 hours if using a fully charged 26650 high capacity Li-ion battery). The D30 1600 comes with a 26650 XTAR branded battery, a XTAR USB multifunction charger, an adaptor tube-because the D30 1600 can run from 18650 batteries as well, however at reduced capacity.

The first press activates 1600 Lumens of white light, second press activates 800 lumens for an estimated run time of 3.2 hours. For the second setting, the light can easily operate for 15 minutes in an ambient temperature of 25C, without overheating. The body just becomes slightly warm. Remember this is an UW video light and meant to be specifically used whilst submerged. However, clearly one can use this light above water on the lower settings of the white light. Finally a 3rd press activates the low power mode of 400 Lumens and a run time of approximately 6.6 hours according to XTAR; In this final white light mode the video dive light can easily operate at room temperature without overheating. The actual body of the torch is quite a large mass of aluminium and it acts as a good heat sink.

To enter into the colored modes, switch off the light and then press twice for the RED setting of 260 lumens and then press again to enter the Blue light mode of 130 Lumens, followed by a another press to enter the (unfiltered) UV mode of approximately 6watts of power. The colored modes have a maximum continuous duration of approximately 3.3 hours.

The front port of the XTAR D30 1600 is optically coated for maximum transmission.

It should be noted that the D30 1600 Diver's video light will consume battery power even whilst the light is switched off, so if the light was not to be used for a while, then one should remove the battery and keep it charged.

There are a total of 7 LEDs in the XTAR D30 1600.

The full spectrum light is from one CREE XHP 35 HI D4 LED. The remaining 6 LEDS are CREE XP E2 LEDs.

Since this is a video light, there is an absence of a traditional type parabolic reflector and instead, the D30 1600 features a special white "reflective surface" this surface aids in producing a extremely even wide spread beam of light in order not to produce any "hotspots" or "dark areas" but essentially very even lighting, in both intensity and distribution. 

The XTAR D30 1600 Diver's video light features a standard 1/4" 20 tripod mount to attach a ball and socket head

Build quality

The overall build quality looks good and the torch/video light has a very solid feel to it. Unlike many other branded diving/underwater/video lights, the XTAR D30 1600 comes with a lanyard, 26650 battery and a portable USB charger all in a sturdy magnetic catch lid box; with good instructions.

For the forgetful there is even marking upon the housing to indicate which way to secure the torch casing.

A blue rubber head bumper is present although I feel this offers little real protection due to it sitting almost flush with the video light's body.

Continuous operation of the XTAR D30 1600

Needless to mention (but I do anyway), this light is NOT meant as some tactical light or regular flashlight and due to it's sheer power should only be continuously operated whilst underwater.

Maintenance

Keep the torch clean and free of salt encrustations (in other words wash it thoroughly after diving-like the rest of your kit!)

Keep the batteries fully charged and use the adaptor when using 18650 type batteries.

With the exception of the 2 O-rings (and charging batteries), there are no user serviceable parts within this Video light.

Like all dive equipment keep it clean and one will obtain a long service life (in other words don't get the O-rings dirty. NEVER use any sharp or even blunt metal object to remove the O-rings when changing them out.

What about the UV? What Wavelength is it?

The 6W UV LED (medium wave, actual wavelength is not stated, however my experience tells me it is above 365nm (true long wave) is more than powerful enough to cause excitation of mineral samples, man made fluorescent objects and other naturally occurring biological materials. This should be good for videography of certain coral species. We will be looking at fluorescence with a large cave system.

What's in the box for the XTAR D30 1600?

Manuals for light an USB battery charger. Included (one) XTAR 26650 Li-ion battery, battery adaptor for 18650 type and other batteries (see manual for instructions). A wrist lanyard, USB cable(not shown here). Personally, I would have liked to have seen included a front port protective cap to stop it getting scratched, so I recommend that the XTAR video light be transported separately from other dive gear.

The operational instructions are in only English and Chinese.

The supplied battery charger, whilst electrically capable of charging a 26650 battery, the dimensions of the 26650 battery will just barely make electrical contact with the positive charing terminal and tends to rise up due to the spring loading of the terminals. A quick fix to make sure proper contact is achieved during charging is to put an elastic band around the battery and charger.

However this being said, the charger works just fine and this is the 3rd type of charger I own from XTAR and they work very well (My oldest charger now over 3 years and still going strong after several passages around the globe with it).

Electrical contact is made, although only via a small surface area of contact.

The supplied XTAR MC1 Plus charger is a "Smart Charger" and can charge at either 1A or 0.5 Amps. Here we see it charging at 1A as I have it connected to a 2.1A supply (large 18650 power bank with 2 outputs, 1.5A and 2A outlets).

Where will my XTAR D30 1600 get used?

So soon, the D30 1600 will form part of an under water lighting system on caving trip where we will use this light to place some underwater 4k cameras into an underground lake! So stay tuned...!

Breaking news! Part one video filed test now complete!

Check it out here

BCT