Thursday, 5 March 2020

The Citizen BN0176-08E PROMASTER ECO-DRIVE 300m Saturation Diver's Watch Comprehensive Review




Citizen BN0176-08E PROMASTER ECO-DRIVE 300m Professional Diver's Watch:
Comprehensive Review

 by BushCampingTools







I thought it was fitting to do a intensive review of this watch as it is the 30th anniversary of the PROMASTER range from Citizen Watches.
This watch was released/announced at Basel World in 2016 and is still being manufactured.


Speaking of Bassel World, , the 2020 conference cancelled due to the stupid panic over the Corona virus, see here:
Which is just crazy as.

The Citizen  BN 0176-08E is the second current model (the top model is the super huge 1000m beast) in Citizen's "MARINE" section within the PROMASTER range of outdoor watches. The other two sections are "LAND" and "SKY". The sister/brother model of the BN 0176-08E is the BN 0177-05E (a fully DLC coated model but sporting Day Glo Green (Fluorescent green) minute hand and second markers (see below).

In this article I will be only reviewing the Citizen BN 0176-08E model  but briefly speak about some other relevant models in this discussion/review.

See it here at the manufacturer's web site:


web site image here



Citizen Promaster Diver Black Dial caliber eco-

drive E168 quartz .


THE Citizen BN0176-08E PROMASTER ECO-DRIVE 300m Saturation Diver's Watch  IS STILL LISTED AS A 2020 CURRENT MODEL ON THE JAPANESE CITIZEN WATCH SITE (WITH A RETAIL LIST PRICE OF 100,000¥)

That's about $912 USD retail list price.


Outer box marked made in the USA





Inner "hard box" marked Made in China!

So I guess the watch is assembled in China????? to be sold in America, who knows?


This is a "hard to get model". Outside of Japan it seems to be sold as quickly as they are listed on various internet sites around the globe (excepting the official Citizen watch sites).
There are two distinct models within this actual watch model:

One carries the words "Japan Movt." and the caliber designation on the watch face E168 and the case back. The other, there are no markings of caliber or where the movement is made, except on the case back.
Case back: Note the two apposing arrows marked upon the case (base of band). These arrows indicate the direction of pin removal for this watch. The BN series does not use regular watch pins to secure the band/bracelet but instead these pins are friction fitted. The arrow indicates the direction that the pin travels to be removed. Why on earth Citizen did this, who knows? This is my only beef about this watch design. Maybe it was just not possible to build such a "monster" watch, have all the indestructibility associated with it and have some woosy bracelet pins fitted, who knows as I said?

I note that on the Japanese website, one can find no markings upon the watch face. I read somewhere that the watch face markings mean that the watch was intended for the USA market (only?). Anyway the sister/brother model of the BN0176-08E is the following:

BN0177-05E

Screen shot of a current 2020 300m Helium escape valve PROMASTER ECO-DRIVE watch.(this model now discontinued according to the USA Citizen site- but NOT the BN 0176-08E watch I review here).

This particular model sports a fully DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coated body and the increased price reflects this, or does it? As that's ten thousand yen more!! 10,000円!, . Also as one can see the minute and second hands are fluorescent lime green. BTW this is an easy color to see at depth ie the "day glow green" ie fluorescent green, speaking from experience. Although now I wonder at what depth the fluorescent orange would disappear? I should be able to simulate this as a little experiment, if we assume that the shorter wavelengths penetrate the depths much better than the longer wavelengths (such as red). The USA Citizen site lists this model as being "discontinued" such a shame really!
But maybe it's the added cost of a full DLC coating? Afterall this model is identical time keeping wise to the watch on review here, the Citizen BN 0176-08E.



Simulated Visibility Experiment at Depth


We tested the bright yellow markers on the SEIKO PROSPEX 200M Air Diver's watch with the following wavelengths:
Violet
Blue 

Yellow and Fluorescent Orange markers What do they look like at depth? (daylight illumination)
Extreme Wavelength Experimental Results:


SEIKO Violet illumination
SEIKO Closeup Violet illumination
SEIKO Blue wavelength illumination


And now the Citizen BN0176-08E PROMASTER 300m Saturation diver's watch.


Violet Illumination 




Blue wavelength illumination



As you can see the  Fluorescent Orange markers appear to be a bit more contrasty than the Seiko's yellow markers. No surprises here as the Citizen BN 0176-08E is deigned go deeper and hence more blue wavelength penetration in clear water. Plus fluorescent colours are obviously fluorescing under blue light!

The Citizen BN 0176-08E (and the Citizen BN 0177-05E) has much more style without lacking the indestructibility value than the old ECOZILLA.! The Ecozilla BTW is only available for sale outside of Japan!

The Citizen BN-0176-08E, the 300m Saturation divers watch is a HARDCORE TOOL!!
As the writing says, PROFESSIONAL DIVER'S



This is a kick ass dive watch. It's a MAN's watch. Did I just say that? YES I did, its REAL MAN'S watch!

Ok, I've never dived deeper than 30 odd metres (100ft pls), so at 10 X the depth rating and maybe, just maybe one day I'll do some saturation diving (for research of course)- I am a marine biologist-past life actually by training so that old Helium escape valve might come in handy so I don't blowup my watch!  


How long does the battery last in an ECO DRIVE that has seen proper charging???

I'm a big fan of the ECO DRIVE. After all, I've owned a 200M ECO-drive dive watch (Citizen 7878 movement/caliber) 


Citizen 200m Diver's watch (missing the bezel because the mechanism simply wore out over 20 odd years of rotation for various sports, diving included-from sand and silt mostly from diving and surfing). The Citizen 7878 caliber is still going strong and keeping great time although the date mechanism seems to be a bit off? So clearly the Lithium Titanium batteries can go the distance!



for almost 20 years and it's still working despite wearing out the Bezel ring mechanism-lost it in the surf of all things! . It has long since proven it's waterproofness and toughness: caving and diving; climbing; surfing; fishing and kayaking etc etc. Now since the Citizen BN0176-08E looks like a mega tough version of my previous ECO DRIVE then I can't see why it will not be able to handle the pace.
Crown of the Citizen BN 0176-08E is at the 4'oclock position, therefore unobtrusive, doesn't restrict wrist movement.
Even wearing diving gloves




Ok lets break down the features of this watch!
Table taken from the Japanese Citizen site.

As the above specifications indicate the BN 0176-08E features hacking for the second hand. The watch has a 6 month power reserve on full charge and the second hand moves every two seconds to indicate a low battery charge. You can not over charge this watch.


A bezel which can be easily turned even wearing (thick) dive gloves!

Wearing dive gloves, no problems turning the chunky bezel on the Citizen BN 0176-08E  PROMASTER  300 Helium saturation diver's watch.



The case thickness is listed as 16.7mm and here you can see what I measured. Certainly social media sites listing it as 18mm and above are somewhat ridiculous and i have no idea of where they got their figures from, probably copied them from other erroneous sites. However, here on Hardcore Knives and tools for wilderness camping, you will get the facts, not hear say!


Yep 16.13mm is close enough to 16.7mm. I suggest this discrepancy is due to the fact i did not measure to the top of the case back. The fact is the BN0176-08E case thickness is no where near 18mm plus as reported elsewhere on other forum sites. 




Mineral crystal watch glass. How thick is it?

Well some say 6mm thick but whatever it is (Citizen do not openly list this specification). I have asked Citizen but I got no reply to that question and many others. Citizen are not renowned for after market sales service/customer service according to many social media blogs/Forums etc.


The Bezel

Coated bezel (DLC coating, that's Diamond Like Carbon).
In other words a PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) coating that adds some superficial hardness and scratch resistance to the Aluminium surface of the bezel. good idea for the DLC coating as this region will see a lot of use and it will help to slow down wear from abrasion (sand, silt, dirt in the water).
One way rotating bezel features a surface coating of DLC, that's "Diamond-Like Carbon" via a PVD process. Not only does it look cool but it is functional as well. DLC coatings work very well to help protect surfaces from light abrasive forces and corrosion. Note easily read BIG minute markers.



Case forged (probably) Stainless steel construction.


Super bright chunky luminous markers


Helium escape valve (ISO 6425)  to prevent damage from expanding 
helium during saturation diving decompression. 
Helium escape valve to allow He gas to escape without damaging the watch

Solar Powered; no need to replace a battery  as I said.

Inside is a Titanium Lithium rechargeable battery.

ECO Drive Movement E168, with date at the 4pm position (date not shown in this picture)


This is what it looks like


Generic Citizen E168 movement Image courtesy of Suppaparts






The Bracelet


The urethane rubber bracelet is great. It has good flexibility and the right amount of "Tackiness" in order to provide a good secure attachment to one's wrist over a wet or dry suit. There is no way the band can come out of the two retaining loops (a common occurrence for many "rubber dive bands" when subjected to harsh movements/rubbing against diving objects and or even clothing! Especially if the end of the strap is subjected to a direct "push" against the end. 
Rubber watch strap two strap retainers (only one shown and this one closest to the buckle is retained via two cut away sections in the band. This is a good design feature as it prevents these things from moving and hence not working properly.


Some, I note on the social media, absolutely detest this band because of it's tackiness but I say this is absolute rubbish because those people by their own admission are not using the watch for diving (of any sort) except to wear the watch as some kind of "would be if I could be diver!", that is, until someone asks them the question they are most scared of: "Are you a diver"?  said interested girl (who BTW was a diver).
"UUUUHHH, ah.... well, actually I'm not"- he says as he shrinks into corner of room at party and looses girl's attention forever!
 This is a watch to wear not to be taking on and off to show off or to be swapping out watches. It's tool and a watch to be worn 24-7!
That 247!

Ok I'm a bit tough here, as dive watches make for great super rough and tumble time pieces and one doesn't need to be a diver.....BUT at least a: surfer; rock fisherman (they always get washed in the drink!); snorkel diver (for abalone, scallops etc); caver, or some activity that gets one wet and it's action stations, but certainly NOT for the office unless you carry that credibility, IMHO! Forget the "cuffs business" if you are a diver then "cuffs it is"! Who says you can't wear a dive watch with a suit! Heck I did, and still do! 



What happens if you don't like the bracelet that comes with the Citizen BN0176-08E? Well there are many aftermarket manufacturers that provide adaptors to fit just about any other band on the market; for example: SUPPAPARTS
See here for the BN series of watches

They look like this:


SUPPAPARTS makes adaptors for the BN series watches from Citizen-no they are not paying me to advertise them, I just found them via an internet trawl. (Image courtesy of SUPPAPARTS)


The Citizen BN 0176-08E is a "lug-less" watch, where the supplied band is specially moulded to provide a rigid support next to the watch case. Special pins which are held in place by split spring steel tubes. What's with this design? Well since Citizen Japan neglected to answer my questions about this watch for the blog. Maybe if I called them then that would have been a little harder to do as I've never encountered anything like this when living in Japan. But I reckon it's a lug-less design because there is no chance that the lugs could get caught p in something. After all, this is a watch meant to be worn for work and work under the water, since there really isn't such a thing as "recreational saturation diving"


But wait there's more........!

Urethane is a great material for watch bands, it possesses a high tensile strength, resistant to many chemicals and extremely resistant to fatigue, fungal attack and of course tear resistance. In short an ideal material for a watch band. 


OK, ok Citizen BN 0176-08E 300m diving watch is an ideal outdoor enthusiasts watch, simple, easy to read anywhere and waterproof beyond reproach (without the bulk of the 1000m model-and cost!).





Actually, a funny story (I reckon) was when I started this corporate job, the knob who was my boss (of sorts) came over to me on my first day and asked to see my shoes (I knew exactly where he was going LOL!), so I showed him:

"Ah leather soles, yeah good to see". He said, then glancing towards my tie he continued. "The tie is silk, right? What brand?"
As I proceeded to show him the Christian Dior label (which he didn't really approve of) of that 100% silk business tie (still a funky colour pattern), he caught sight of my wrist.
"Ah, no the watch (a diving watch) is not appropriate here, you need a watch like mine." He said, smiling like a complete chump!  He was sporting a gold Tag Heuer dress watch, like some absolute woosy flimsy looking time piece which was about ten times the cost of my SEIKO slim line wave Quartz (shark action seen) dive watch LOL! - can you remember that model??? Ok that tells you how old I am LOL! I told him Tag Heuer dive watches were gimmicks! Needless to say he beat a hasty retreat to his fishbowl office and had it in for me for the duration of my 3 odd years there LOL!

Ok I digress!

The overall case shape of the Citizen BN 0176-08E
Unlike the Citizen Ecozilla, the Citizen BN 0176-08E's case is widest at it's base and narrowest at the bezel. I protected the watch crystal with a Note Pad screen protector

The Citizen BN 0176-08E case tapers from the wrist up, not down as in the ECOZILLA, and is 1mm thinner than the ECOZILLA. The Citizen BN 0176-08E case is 48mm wide.


This in MHO is a much better design than (the 

Citizen BJ8050-08E) tapering from a narrow case back to a wider watch face, it makes the watch look like a "bucket" and "top heavy".

I'm not sure why the ECOZILLA has such a following and also the large amount of 3rd part modifications available for it. maybe it's just the retro looking design but it still looks like a bucket LOL IMHO (No offense really to all ECO ZILLA owners and lovers)



On Design


Cutaways on the minute and hour hands to allow light to get at the smaller solar panel (smaller than the ECOZILLA).


Big fluorescent orange minute hand to easily see elapsed dive minutes. Impossible to get wrong even in dim light/murky waters/darkness (with torch/flashlight of course!).





Huge fluorescent orange minute hand, easily see elapsed dive minutes. Note the "cutaway" in the minute hand (the hour hand also has a cut out section but it is hard to see in the image). This is done to allow optimal light exposure on the ECO Drive solar cell. The actual solar cell of this beast is quite small compared to the Citizen ECO ZILLA.

Huge chunky super bright luminous hour markers, easily seen for night diving or any activity in total darkness.




Where does the Citizen BN 0176-08E 300m ECO-DRIVE saturation divers watch sit within the current 2020 Professional Diving watch range?

 See details second from bottom (above table), see 300m waterproof He-Gas DIVER'S  300M. NOTE the text states, "Air tight structure against Helium gas, which basically means if you unscrew the crown to this watch whilst in the chamber/bell and Helium enters, then it can later harmlessly (the the watch) escape. However, if you do not unscrew the crown whilst in the chamber/bell then Helium gas can not enter the watches' structure. BTW I found this information on the Japanese language website for Citizen Japan and used Google translator for the English version seen above.


How does the helium escape valve work?

It simply allows the super small molecules of helium gas to escape and prevents much much larger molecules of water under pressure from entering the watch at depth.

As one well known writer (Ed ESTLOW) of watch reviews said:
"And let’s be honest. With the availability of modern dive computers, the dive watch as a vital diving tool is an anachronism"

This is of course complete Bullsh&t! and hardly "old fashioned". If you are a serious diver, regardless of how many computers you own and how good you are with dive computers, you will be wearing that dive watch. In fact I'm afraid to dive with anyone who only sports a computer. Here are my reasons: Firstly, dive computers can be damaged by being carelessly looked after, not serviced calibrated, checked against other reliable dive computers/bashed in the boat etc. Casing leaks etc. if any of this happens whilst diving with only buddies who sport dive computers, you are screwed without a watch to calculate times etc. So has this actually happened to me or am I speaking off the top of my head, speaking out of my behind? Trying to be a scare monger? YES, it has happened to me on a dive and it was during a repetitive dive, on the surface (so lucky!) where one of the other teams (there were 4 of us, 2 teams of 2, of course!) dive computer was malfunctioning! Ok, out came the tables but wait they were not wearing watches! Ok this scenario only has to happen once I reckon for one not to get caught out in the future, This was a lucky situation as we were all back at the surface, and actually no need to do the second dive (we did anyway- I think I remember a borrowed watch from the dive staff on board).

BTW I never throw myself watch arm leading into the dive boat so as to crack my watch hard against some surface in the boat, nor do I throw my watch or gear onto my arm in a dive bucket of gear to damage my watch. Get my point about wearing a dive watch?

The other place a dive watch IMHO based upon over 35 years of caving, including 2 expeditions; is during exactly that: CAVING. Especially super wet caves. Abseiling through waterfalls, swimming duck unders, mud grit, vibration, accidental banging of arms etc against gear bags or whatever, one needs to be able to tell the time underground - WHY? because you have to be able to know how long your lights are going to last, that's why; and a serious dive watch is the choice of tools for serious 24 hour plus caving expeditions.
Mr Estlow (who is not a diver) goes on to say that according to one of his diving mates, the helium escape valve only presents a liability for the dive watch failing. ABSOLUTE BS! What kind of a diver-must be a novice or armchair diver, would suggest this??? It simply doesn't make any sense at all! A one way valve is a one way valve, end of story. The helium escape valves on respected watches like the Citizen BN 0176-08E are built to a standard.

One more thing Ed Estlow goes onto say is that most "divers" in America are of the "corporate cube" type! LOL! I thought this was so funny (see my story above-ok he wasn't wearing a dive watch), who knows maybe it is the truth. In fact, I bought the model in question here, the Citizen BN 0176-08E from a guy who had never worn it near any water let alone dived with it by his own admission but was a bit of a "watch fan"! That's ok to be a collector, I guess.

Here (below) just for reference is the watches that sit above the 800M model (discontinued?) and this blogged model, the Citizen BN 0176-08E 300m watch:






A comparison between an air divers watch such as my SEIKO automatic Prospex 200m dive watch featuring a 4R36  24 jewel  automatic movement and the Citizen ECO DRVE BN 0176-08E (solar) E168 movement.

The watch caliber/movement is Quartz oscillator E168, with a stated accuracy of: ±15 sec. per month. Accuracy will be dependent upon ambient temperature fluctuations.


Both a "biggish" watches but NOT really that big.


Who says dive watches are too chunky to wear everyday. The fact is they are meant to be worn everyday. These kinds of watches ARE TOOLS


ECO DRIVE Charging hints from a guy who sees lots of sunlight and long term owner of ECO Drive watches
Charging time (see table below)
Now let's get this right for solar powered watches!

You need to put the watch into FULL SUNLIGHT if you really want to charge it properly and quickly. I mean full sunlight, like the blazing sunlight in AUSTRALIA LOL! Forget stupid LED lights etc. You'll never charge your solar watch like that, and certainly do not under any circumstances charge your solar watch under an incandescent light bulb unless you want to roast the battery! (one of the most common service issues). OR DO NOT charge the watch by leaving it on the dash of your car unless you want a well done cooked watch with a fried side order of battery! The dash can become well over 120F and over 60C! Do not place your ECO DRIVE on a rock in the sun either to charge it, the rock will cook it! Do not place it behind a window unless the back of the watch sees a lot of air movement to keep it cool! In short the safest way to charge it is upon your wrist (against your skin) and that way the watch can not go over 37C!-unless you are running a temperature or you are dead.
Late afternoon winter sun is ok and the watch will/should not get hot. You don't want it to get hot at all. If you charge it on morning full sun, Summer sunlight then u must protect the watch from getting hot. Pictured here is the Missus's Casio Protrek, showing a full charge (indicated by the small H-under the 21) and my Citizen BN 0176-08E. Note that the Casio when it was fully discharged took 15 hours of super bright Summer Sunlight (Australia) to achieve the "H" mark, meaning fully charged. The Citizen BN 0176-08E  say about 11 hours from full discharge. I got (and it's still working) over 20 years from my other ECO DRIVE but I have been careful to make sure it never displayed the 2 second low charge indicator and that the watch was always exposed to full sunlight on my wrist. if you want to get the most from your ECO DRIVE then I'd follow that regime as close as practically possible.








Where is it made???  Certainly ALL of the parts are MADE IN JAPAN by Citizen.

The caliber E168 says it's made in JAPAN, however, the place of assembly is a little bit harder to ascertain however, it doesn't really matter does it?; they are built to a standard and this is Citizen's top of the range dive watches for professional divers, whose lives depend upon zero equipment failures, as one saturation diver told me in relation to his back up gas supply: "If I'm going to need this at depth and distance to get back to the bell, I'm going to be fu%k$d in zero viz water"!

Can you hear the E186 mechanism? It's very silent!

Well my ears can just pick up a ticking sound but this could be because of my age (although my young son tells me it is almost inaudible) and of course due to the case thickness.


What are the positives about the Citizen BN 0176-08E PROMASTER 300m watch?

The bezel is very easy to grab ahold of and this makes a huge difference to ease of use. There is a reassuring "click" to be heard and felt on every second mark.


Stylish smooth case design, nothing to catch upon any materials.

Easy to read at depth


Bracelet which doesn't easily come undone at all.- This is a plus for divers.


ECO DRIVE of course no stuffing with a battery every 3 years or less. This is a Big Big Plus IMH and experienced opinion regarding ECO DRIVE watches and battery powered watches in general.

Tough metal construction
What are the negatives of the Citizen BN 0176-08E PROMASTER 300m saturation diver's watch?


The hour hand is a bit too much like the hour markers in size and the same color of course (offers little contrast), because both sport large amounts of luminous phosphor. Of course for diving the minute hand is the most important for up to 60min worth of diving. Obviously, for saturation diving where one could be out of the bell for many hours duration, this is irrelevant.

 At a quick glance at certain hand positions, it can be a bit hard to quickly read the time, especially when the minute hand covers the hour hand, one might be at first looking at the rest of the dial to see if in fact the hour hand is located there.

Citizen use some sort of non standard fixing mechanism in order to attach the bracelet. A pin (there are two of course) which must be  removed with a pin punch and special plastic headed hammer, in order to replace the band/retro fit adaptors which can take regular type watch straps. This is a procedure that shouldn't be undertaken unless you are very confident about what you are doing and or not possessing three thumbs per hand!


Here I show only for "entertainment" the following series of images from SUPPAPARTS on their guide to replacing the original watch strap.



Summary



Ok, so I can hardly wait to go diving with my newish Citizen BN0176-08E 300m PROMASTER diving watch. Totally satisfied by what I see and know about this hard to get model. Stick around for a field view of it in action although there's not too much to see re the watch but rather better look at the great fish whilst diving LOL!


BushCampingTools telling it how it is for hardcore outdoor products! (that he actually uses LOL!).




Sunday, 1 March 2020

How to Protect your precious watch

How to Protect your Precious Watch.



PUT A SCREEN PROTECTOR ON IT, that's how!

Featured watch is the Citizen 300m saturation divers watch model: Citizen BN 0176-08E


Movement made in Japan painted on the watch face E168 solar ECO Drive


This is the USA model as the USA model shows Movt. Japan; S144308 Y1
 Other country models do not show this on the watch face only on the back casing. By the way, this model also shows these details on the back casing.

Size comparison with my SEIKO Prospex 200 air divers watch.  Basically these watches are of similar size, the Citizen BN 0176-08E is slightly thicker but not much. I have put the SEIKO several minutes fast .



Start by purchasing a quality tablet screen protector but NOT a glass one. It must be plastic. In this tutorial  I'm using the follow brand: Clearskin (Super clear screen guard).
The tablet screen will come with stickers indicating which surface is which. Do not remove them but use other regions of the screen protector and mark them separately with a waterproof marker pen.
Cut out a small region (you will have lots left over for multiple screen guards in the future). Make sure you not which surface i which and DO NOT confuse the actual adhesive surface with the upper most face surface, as it is virtually impossible to tell unless touched and once touched the screen protector will not stick properly to the watch crystal.

I used a waterproof marker to do this.



For this particular watch I used a suitable coin for which it's diameter was very close to that of the BN 0176-08E face. In this case it was an English Pound coin! But any round object of similar size will do for a template.
Using a disposable surgical scalpel (#22), I carefully partially cut around the coin in question.













Be sure to mart the correct surfaces (only need to mark the upper surface, ie the surface which will be facing the environment.




Next using isopropyl alcohol, and an optical grade microfibre wipe, I carefully cleaned the crystal surface-to rid it of any oily contamination. 

I used a quality electronic grade ISOPROPYL alcohol to clean the watch crystal prior fitting the screen protective cover.




Use a quality microfibre cloth to clean the crystal surface






Checking the fit before attaching; note the red marker pen, so it's impossible to confuse surfaces of the protective screen

Using jeweller's forceps (to avoid finger grease) place the screen protector onto the crystal. Obviously make sure you have removed the correct protective film, ie from the surface with the adhesive!

Using the same forceps/tweezers, remove the upper protective film away from the screen protector.


The Citizen BN 0176-08E 300m saturation divers ECO Drive watch features super bright chunky luminous markers. They are not despite their size better than that of SEIKO's Lumibrite phosphors. But none the less super bright and easy to read.


If you have done a good job of sticking your "custom" crystal protector upon your watch face then you will not easily notice it and the the watch crystal will now be protected against scratches.



So how good are these protectors I made from Clearskin's product?


Answer VERY VERY Good! I installed on on my SEIKO PROSPEX 200m divers watch and it has seen diving, swimming, sand and surf and the screen itself has remained unscratched and of course it has given excellent protection the watch crystal. I even have been caving with that SEIKO; so I have no reason to doubt that this screen I installed for my Citizen BN 0176-08E 300 Helium Saturation divers watch, will perform any less better.


Go do it, it's far cheaper than buying ready made screen protectors and one can choose the brand and model of screen protector/quality themselves and get some satisfaction from doing it yourself!






Monday, 24 February 2020

Work Tuff Gear ATAYAL

Work Tuff Gear ATAYAL



Work Tuff Gear have released yet another super star in the big utility camp knife domain, the ATAYAL, made with  日本語 (That's Japanese) SK85 High Carbon tool steel. The name of this knife comes directly from an Indigenous Taiwanese tribe, see here for more information:


The Work Tuff Gear Atayal embraces all of the functionality of this indispensable tool of the Atayal people however, now made with modern materials such as G10 composite for the handle scales and a quality Japanese high carbon tool steel, SK85 and Kydex for the no nonsense all weather sheath. 

Work Tuff Gear have double tempered this blade and if their double tempering is anything like the same for the amazing Work Tuff Gear Lanzeta then, look out because it's a great temper treatment. (just watch that blade flex like a sword in my video field review of the Lanzeta for a honest view of the tempering process at Work Tuff Gear!).



Work Tuff Gear Atayal with Kydex sheath (Static line author's), cord on the lanyard provided by WTG. Rugged high denier Nylon belt loop, with velcro and press stud for quick release, no need to remove one's belt.




The Atayal features an absolutely deadly sharp convex grind, and I mean deadly scary sharp. There's been a lot of love gone into the production of this model (well, just like his others!)





The WTG Atayal blade has been acid washed to provide a low sheen/low reflective surface treatment. The grind is basically a sabre if you like.  The Work Tuff Gear Atayal is no small knife, at a manufacturer's length of 8.8" blade with 8.2" of cutting power! The blade has been hardened to 56/58 HRC.


The spine thickness is 5mm (0.196") or so and the Atayal, although a big knife is not too heavy in the hand due to some milling within the grip. I measured a tang thickness of 5.99mm, in other words a 6mm thick tang. This tang thickness tapers down to 4.86mm at the very top of the spine, that is 5mm in reality. This is one sturdy knife. The overall curvature of the Work Tuff Gear ATAYAL suggests good usage from butchering meat to slicing through jungle vegetation and food preparation, fishing and hunting. WTG haven't reinvented the wheel here, they have taken a traditional tool design from people who have been using such shaped blades in their daily lives for many years; and produced something modern for the outdoors persons.


The Work Tuff Gear ATAYAL features a generous lanyard hole and the butt extends slightly above the scales so if anything was struck here one wouldn't damage the scales. (red cord came with my knife).

The G10 grip is well contoured and feels very comfortable in the hand but enough grip to enable one to securely hold onto such a large knife without fear of letting go accidentally.




The Work Tuff Gear Atayal grip features a very comfortable, yet grippy handle with a good palm swell, not too thick there and can easily accommodate a hand size from 8 upwards!

Fit and finish are great as usual from this manufacturer. Just look at those funky fluoro green scale liners that just match the scale colour without being gaudy at all. But don't freak out, there are many other handle color variations available at the time of writing this article; AND as I said, the attention to detail such as the excellent convex grind on the ATAYAL makes for great cutting power. 















Field review to follow!




Wednesday, 5 February 2020

DUE CIGNI Coltelerie Butcher's Knife with Nitrogen enhanced stainless steel

DUE CIGNI Coltellerie Professional Butcher's Knife with Nitrogen enhanced stainless steel


The DUE CIGNI range of Knives from FOX Knives of Italy are their Professional kitchen range.  DUE CIGNI represent  quality cutlery for the discerning professional.
For example: I have the DUE CIGNI Butcher's knife, Cat number 2C410/16 NG. This knife features an anti slip plastic over moulded grip, fully dishwasher safe. Unlike the competitors, for example: a DICK knife; of which I'm very disappointed as the grip is not as ergonomic and it is downright slippery! Also, I've found that the steel in DICK knives I've been using, chips like no tomorrow! I mean 
seriously, you can not make a plastic handled kitchen knife that is slippery when your hands are wet and covered in grease and blood! or the knife needs constant sharpening! 

The choice of steel for this DUE CIGNI knife is the highly corrosion resistant, yet hard and flexible X50CrMOVN15, this is a NITROGEN ENHANCED stainless steel for excellent edge retention. The grip is bright yellow and easily identified and seen in any light.
To see this knife in action check out the following channel for some fun videos!





Sunday, 2 February 2020

The ER Fulcrum Bayonet as a survival knife Vs the ER AMF? What do I think here?

The Extrema Ratio Fulcrum Bayonet as a survival knife Vs the Extrema Ratio AMF? What do I think?


Are these survival knives*?
*my definition of a survival knife: see previous extensive blogs on this subject and videos.



The AMF (Advanced Multifunction) 

Firstly, the AMF is certainly a BIG knife, no arguments there. It is easily carried either on the waist or strapped to a pack via the multitude of attachment options on the sheath. You can hack down a small tree with this knife-eg palm trees for edible palm heart etc; good point and very strong blade which is easy to use cutting up meat and fish. It's NOT a skinning knife by no means however, it can be done if skilled at skinning (so yeah in my hands :) no problems-but I'd prefer my Linder's or PUMAs or similar on a hunting trip; not this big monster. The retro design will appeal to many. There are  multiple attachment points as well for lanyards etc. and zero shock to users hands due to the cushioning of the large but comfortable Forprene grip. The AMF suits someone with big hands and or long fingers but hands no bigger than size 9 otherwise that funky rear guard may prove troublesome. Other than the blade edge, there are no acute angles to strike a fire steel if that is your thing. Plus in a real emergency one can always use the blade edge.

The Extrema Ratio AMF pictured with the edible fruit of the Screw Pine or otherwise known as the Pandanus palm. This plant neither belongs to the Pinus genus or the Arecaceae genus and is a tropical plant.

Well-made sturdy multi-attachment scabbard

Size 9 hand, note there is still some room at the rear end of the handle.



Am I still loving it??? The short answer is YES! However, this knife is purely for wilderness adventures and pulling it out anywhere but in the wilderness is going to draw a lot of unwanted attention due to its formidable size. Made in Italy Europe but certainly not for use in Europe!








The Extrema Ratio Fulcrum Bayonet NFG



The Fulcrum bayonet NFG is also a big knife that can be used if necessary to hack small trees/bamboo/big vines etc. Rope cutting no problems since it has some small serrated section. Easily sharpened due to all straight edges, extremely sturdy tip design. Useless at skinning but can cut meat and gut fish. Added advantage of being able to cut and bend (use the wire cutter hole for this) thick wire. Ok one can do this (bend wire) but with limited wire diameters via the holes in the guard of the AMF.


Wire cutter, very very useful and not just for cutting modern barbed wire!

Super strong glass fibre reinforced scabbard



Essentially the construction of these two knives is not that dissimilar to one another. Both have Forprene grips which totally encompass the tang; both have removable guards and pommels (via one socket head bolt). One has Malice clips, one has Molle loops (the latter being the Fulcrum Bayonet NFG). 
They start to differ in the scabbards:
The AMF has a ballistic Nylon scabbard, whilst the Fulcrum NFG has a rigid FRN scabbard with a built in diamond sharpening plate. I've even used the weight of the scabbard to kill fish with! This scabbard is super military strong!

If one defines "survival" as far as name for equipment is concerned, then I would interpret this as the following:

Equipment which is extremely reliable in that if regular maintenance was not conducted, then the said equipment would still function to its fullest or near fullest capacity under adverse conditions other than those subjected on it directly by the user/s. This equipment should be able to be field repaired with little or no specialised tools, such as Allen drivers, torx head wrenches etc and or have parts/materials replaced/repaired which can be easily sourced.




Be prepared and go with good knowledge!Read about the real story here. It's been abridged for a general audience.



Getting back to so called "survival knives"..... , are these two knives "survival knives"?


Can you easily attach the grip back on if you loose the end cap bolt with the AMF or the Fulcrum NFG? NO, not at all! But it is possible. How do I know this? Well I have examined these two knives very closely and devised a simple way to do this with just a strong piece of wood and some cord.
But is this an issue??? Well it depends doesn't it? Bear in mind the above short story (if you read it).
That's why these knives (the AMF and Fulcrum NFG) are not specifically listed on ER's web site under the banner of "Survival Knives" however, the ONTOS is.






Why is the ONTOS listed a a "survival knife"?

If the handle bolt (there is only one) was to become lost on the ONTOS, the grip (provided it wasn't lost either!) can be simply fixed to the tang by inserting some cord into the lanyard hole, done deal, easy field repair! It is now impossible for the handle to come off! (see above three images). Redundancy at it's best! This is why the ONTOS is a true survival tool! The cord would prevent the handle from passing over it!

But this scenario can only happen if one never checks their gear (ie for loose screws- rifle mounts etc etc) and one should definitely be doing this all the time whether away for a weekend/day or several weeks regardless of the knife, with exception of totally (quality) moulded grips.


My point is: Don't get hung up with this "survival shit" otherwise you'll spend all your time and maybe money worrying about it and not have any real adventures!

 Does this mean a handle which is riveted on permanently or bolted on with Torx or Allen bolts is a good choice too for a "survival" knife? Well that depends too. I've never heard of anyone breaking a G10 scaled or micarta scaled knife handle. On well riveted knives, the scales don't come off as well.

Those bolts can work loose if not maintained or loctited on and then it would also be difficult to secure those loose scales. Rivets if they fail could also spell trouble. My point is buy a well made product/s and they wont fail if regularly checked and maintained. A cord wrapped knife, there is nothing to really fail but then a lot of cord wrapped knives are not too comfortable under prolonged usage and must be thoroughly cleaned should blood and guts get all over the cord or it becomes soaked in salt water.