Friday, 9 June 2017

Kizlyar Supreme CITY HUNTER







WHOA!!!! this is a way cool knife!


Some of you will be saying hey this looks like the very useful Kizlyar Supreme URBAN. And you'd be right. The City Hunter is like the URBAN on STEROIDS!!!. Same ergonomic handle, nicer sheath but here the difference is a Sabre flat grind, meaning more "meat" on that blade, making the edge basically stronger than the URBAN. There is also slight increase in blade thickness from 3.2mm to 3.4mm. This latter design feature gives this blade a more heftier feel too. Plus the overall shape and geometry of the blade is totally different. Kizlyar Supreme have answered the requests from the many users (including me) to produce a knife of similar dimensions and functionality of the URBAN but with a different blade geometry and keeping with the already very nice handle. 




The CITY HUNTER is also available in M390 Powder Metallurgy Stainless alloy!



Stay tuned to BushCampingTools for a full field test of the Kizlyar Supreme CITY HUNTER fixed blade.









Thursday, 8 June 2017

Kizlyar Supreme STURM Fixed Blade




Kizlyar Supreme STURM (German for STORM) is a great fixed blade, flat grind, proper full tang knife.

 Eye Candy Shots from the Australian bush!
Secure ergonomic grip

Stainless AUS8 blade. Come on AUS8 is great; high carbon (by definition) with significant percentage of Vanadium.

Full tang strong construction with comfortable finger gimping.

Rounded butt end, no funky spiky skull crushers to get caught up on.








I don't want to get caught up in these thorny vines LOL!




The Kizlyar Supreme Kraton handle is ergonomic and super grippy. That's why it's on all their tactical knife models. There are only 2 fixing bolts for the scales and the scabbard is very well designed and totally functional, for example: belt or Molle compatible and easily strapped to a pack or to change the mount direction, ie vertical to horizontal mount.


AUS8 Stainless Steel, perfect in the wet. Knife Made In Russia!
Kizlyar Supreme Sturm paired up with my machete (BTW that walnut grip on the machete is grippy in the wet too!)

In the wet no problems with it's very grippy Kraton handle.

Cutting banana hands off the bunch. In a wet environment you've got to be using a stainless steel blade unless you want to be continually cleaning your blade. Also choosing a knife with a kydex or polyamide sheath as apposed to a traditional leather sheath also has many benefits; one being simple it is easy to maintain from a hygiene point of view, and no rotting of the leather in hot humid conditions.


Enough weight in the STURM to easily hack apart a small palm trunk


After 1 week of cutting dirty objects covered in mud, hard woods, banana stems, without sharpening, I cut up this meat with no trouble.




I've had my eye on this model for a while. The flat grind is vey appealing and adds that extra "meat" to the blade. Comfortable finger gimping, drop point and butt end lanyard hole. Speaking of the butt end, its smooth and rounded and that's a good thing because you can shove your palm into it and not stick it into your palm. No funky "skull crusher" butt ends, just practicality in design. 
The STURM is also just the right size for comfortable (I don't want to scare the other campers) camp cooking knife. I've found all of my Kizlyar Supreme AUS8 knives keep their edge at HRC 57-59.

Totally recommend this medium sized fixed blade. 


















Friday, 28 April 2017

DON'T BE A STEEL SNOB!!!!!

VANADIO 1.4116
German DIN1.4116
X50CrMoV15
German steel
DIN 1.4116




WTF IS THIS STEEL????


Well this is actually DIN 1.4116 and that translates to the following elemental composition: (Direct Reference to thyssenkrupp documentation

Ok so the Spanish are calling this alloy

"Vandio" and this is because it does indeed contain significant amounts of Vanadium ranging from 0.1-0.2% ie the range acceptable for this alloy. The other significant element is Molybdenum at 0.5-0.8%. Along with a Carbon content range of: 0.45-0.55%.


What this translates to is a martensitic stainless steel, of which a high hardness can be achieved along with a very good toughness and resistance to corrosion.

This is precisely why this alloy is used throughout the cutlery industry and food processing blades and knives on a global scale. It can be both air hardened and oil quenched.

For those of you too lazy to read the PDF from ThyssenKrupp here it is:


I own one outdoor knife made with this steel, from Nieto Knives in Spain, otherwise known as Miguel Nieto SL; it's the CHAMAN model, 




of which they market under the banner of a "Survival Knife". Whenever I hear or read about knives entitled with the name "Survival" then it has to stand up to a lot of abuse in order to satisfy my personal experience of the word "Survival", when it comes to edged weapons.

I have really beaten the daylights out of and some may say abused my Chaman knife, especially the edge. Like cutting through tin cans. Laugh if you like but the edge was undamaged. The prestigious KNIFE magazine in Japan (just about the best magazine on knives full stop-you just need to be able to read Japanese!) Tested STRIDER's MFS made with Hitachi Steel's ATS34 by cutting open tins of ham! Then going on to cut up other things without sharpening. And of course the Japanese do not know anything about knives.......NOT!

Sure it (my Chaman) requires some touching up now and again but on what frequency? NOT MUCH is my answer. Working semi seasoned BEECH, 




through the dirty bark, oak, Douglas fir, Cherry etc has NO affect on the edge of this knife. How do I keep it sharp, simply by using a ceramic stone on the edge.
Do I see it suffering from corrosion, no not at all and I sometimes put it away wet and dirty (not a very smart thing to do).

So is the Chaman worthy of carrying the label of "Survival Knife" YES -depending on where you are. I say the latter as this small drop point with a sabre hollow grind is better suited to non-tropical conditions. Tropical environments generally always dictate a knife needs to be able to "chop" and as this is a small knife then it's not that good at chopping. However, it can be done.
My point is take the right tool into the environment. NO one Knife can handle all sorts of environmental situations.

In my view and experience, a knife, if to be titled "Survival" simply has to be well constructed with little or no chance of failing the user. That is, it isn't going to break easily if accidentally subjected to some un-foreseen abuse, for example: levering.

Whatever the handle construction it should not part company with the blade.

There should be as few parts as possible in it's construction and of those parts there should be no one part of which whose purpose, should it fail, render the knife dangerous or hazardous to use.

See my extensive review of my Nieto Chaman here.

AND SEE WHAT YOU THINK.


HARDCORE KNIVES AND TOOLS FOR WILDERNESS CAMPING







Friday, 24 March 2017

Survival Knives



What is this "Survival Knife" Craziness???













Sorry just have to say my bit about this crazy "Survival Knife"stuff.

Hopefully dispel some myths too.



Don't forget to read my video description too!






Monday, 20 March 2017

Why I'm still loving my FKMD Combat Survival Knife!






Several years on and I don't regret buying this knife. Firstly, it's a knife that you're not afraid to really use (and often abuse). Make no mistakes it's tough as! When a knife comes from FKMD with the name of "Combat Survival" then I'm going to test it to the maximum with no holds barred! Forget all you worry worts about full tangs etc etc. If this knife was going to bust at the tang it would have after the first blow. Forget all you worry worts about the hypothetical "stress risers" on that saw back. It has not failed. Cast your minds to where I showed that the actual milling in the saw region leaves radii and no acute angles (which in the latter case might be a region of stress risers).



Love those serrations, still deadly sharp after countless batoning in this region and cutting of cords and ropes covered in crap. These are well designed serrations, no woosy cutting here!



The handle is super tough, albeit not the most comfortable but it works.




Lastly, the super tough FRN Molle scabbard with inbuilt diamond plate sharpener along with a very good wire cutter, is/has done it's "tour of duty" and is still going strong.



I'm still recommending it. If you don't mind a saw back (which BTW can easily cut hard plastics, wood (better on dead than green) make notches in no time flat.

I've been in the serious wilderness with ONLY this knife and never had my doubts over it failing me.

Hopefully more videos later this year!

Monday, 13 March 2017




EXTREMA RATIO RAOII



The Story continues!





My Extrema Ratio RAOII gets a lot of use (and sometimes abuse!). here seen once again on the coast. Lots of salt water,  and salt spray. A good test for the materials in this knife.

I had the pin in 10 minutes ago bashing the daylights out of some birch i sawed up that was driftwood. About 7cm in diameter (it was dry). When batoning this knife you have to absolutely use the supplied pin otherwise the shock can unlock the pin. Nothing is going to happen but you might get a bit of a surprise! So use that pin if hitting the spine.

What's with all this stupid paint??? Well I needed to take the RAOII in a high vis area and when it was painted up fully (simple acrylic -non-permanent- don't worry ER no vandalism to this baby!). I had made it look, well kinda of "kids toy-like" LOL. In fact no one batted an eyelid when carried in the open. That's my "urban camo"!


Anyway it's been wearing off ever since, back to the Mil Spec matt black. Ok, so how is this knife holding up and what are my thoughts, a bit down the track? 







It's as tough as! Stays sharp and is dead easy to keep sharp. Holds that edge. NO problems with the mechanism, although I don't use it in muddy conditions as that roller lock system will just clog up with crap. Ok once it's clogged, if the knife is open, lock it out with the pin and then leave it as a "fixed blade" and clean it when u get back to civilization or sooner.




I think the biggest bonus to this folder is that it is unobtrusive when folded in or out of the pouch and this is good in high vis areas. Something no fixed blade unless concealed carry is going to offer. Plus when locked out with the pin, you do get a sturdy hefty knife that despite what it's critics say (most have no idea as they probably don't own one), it can take a real beating like a fixed blade and suffer no damage. This is amazing for a folder.
The downsides are that it is heavy and big, and this can't be helped if you want such a tough folder. The Extrema Ratio RAOII has it's place. It IS NOT easily field serviceable due to the numerous tools needed to open it up. The weakest link is still the small spring. If this breaks then the knife must def be carried as a fixed blade (not so much of a problem as it's doesn't destroy it's functionality).

Best lubricants to use:

High quality Mountain bike lubes that don't attract dirt or mud. be careful not to get it everywhere if u intend on cutting up food with the blade. Put it on the mechanism NOT the blade!





See my previous posts for what Loctite series to use to secure the locking screw after setting the blade tension. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT AS THE WRONG LOCTITE WILL STOP YOU REMOVING THE SMALL SCREW IN THE FUTURE by possible burring of the screw slot or simply permanently anchoring the screw into the body. Know your Loctites!

Monday, 6 March 2017



Advantages and Disadvantages of 3 common locking methods for folding knives




From L-R Liner Lock, Axis Lock and Lock back folders.




Currently there are 4*** general locking mechanisms employed on todays folding knives.

In no particular order:

1) The Liner Lock, whereby a section of one liner, is treated to produce a "spring mechanism" in order to engage with the rear of the knife tang.
Liner lock, showing precise engagement of the locking liner



2) The Axis or Roller lock Mechanism

The axis or roller locking method, whereby the blade is locked by the action of a "bar" under spring tension, engages with, or moves over the rear end of the knife tang. The blade is held in place as pressure upon the bar is not directed towards releasing the bar, hence only a relatively small weak spring is required to hold the bar from moving. Although any slight movement could cause a catastrophic closure!
Axis lock, note the partially visible spring attached to the "roller bar"

3) the Lock Back mechanism

 The traditional lock back mechanism. This mechanism has been around for some time and the locking is achieved when a notch in the tang of the blade engages with the opposing notch in a (usually) thick bar, which is also a spring and forming part of the knife body itself. The sides of the knife are in direct contact with the knife's liners (as is the case for non-locking folders for example, Swiss Army type folders etc
Traditional "lock back" note the notch (covered in grease, facing viewer) which forms part one of two of the locking mechanism

A traditional lock back folder, the blade is in direct contact across it's full surface with the knife liners.  

The blade on this axis locking folder is not in contact with the liners but only the surface area of the washers, in this case for this knife, a plastic and brass washer.

On this liner lock folder the blade is like that of the axis locking knife, only the blade is in contact with the washers, not the entire knife liners.


ADVANTAGES
The advantages of 1)

Quick to open one handed, relatively simple design.
Can be designed as a "flipper" for super fast operation.
Design lends itself for Rescue knife design, ie one handed operation.


The advantages of 2)

quick to open
left or right hand operation
Design lends itself for Rescue knife design, ie one handed operation.




The advantages of 3)

Left or right handed operation.
Large surface area of blade in contact with actual knife body
Few parts and therefore less affected by ingression of foreign bodies into mechanism.
Wearing of parts in direct contact with each other is slow.
Almost zero field maintenance or no user serviceable parts.
Spring tension is usually high and that means blade retention within the knife body is good.


DISADVANTAGES


Disadvantages of 1)

Because of the gap created by the spring liner foreign material can enter here, such as sand, mud or sticks etc and render the mechanism inoperable unless cleaned.

Knife is only "handed" ie for a right hand closure, the liner that moves must be on the left hand side as viewed when looking at the open knife tip uppermost. The a left hand closure, the spring liner must be on the right hand side as viewed similarly.

The rear of the knife, ie tang is only in contact with washers (plastic or metal or a combination of both). This means the knife body plays no part in stabilizing any lateral forces exhibited upon the blade. 

Once washer/s wear sufficiently, then the knife will require servicing. This is an almost impossible task to perform in the field as it requires small screw drivers or torx head drivers or the like to be carried in order to strip the knife and replace the washers.

Indent setting plays large role in blade retention in the closed position- depends on the manufacturer.

Washer tension must be set right in order for proper operation.



Disadvantages of 2)

Locking mechanism's weakest link is the small spring. If this fails (it will have a limited lifetime of operation), then the knife can not be closed or locked safely.

The axis system,  is open to ingression of foreign matter rendering the opening and or closing to be impossible until the material is cleared. 

This knife design sports the greatest number of small parts. The more parts the more things there are to fail.

Sudden Vibration forces greater than the holding force of the roller spring can actuate the roller and cause disengagement.

Depending on the strength of the roller spring, the blade can come out of it's enclosure if subject to a downward force (such as falling tumbling etc).

Spring tension is usually weak and blade retention within (closed position) is just OK.

Washers will wear out and require service, small parts can be lost in the field. Field servicing not advised.

Washer tension must be set right in order for proper operation.



Disadvantages of 3)

Due to a larger surface area of blade tang in contact with steel liners, there is more friction generated and a requirement for adequate lubrication is a must for smooth long life time operation. Failure to do so can wear parts which are not user serviceable or possibly serviceable by the manufacturer.


*If the spring back is not sufficiently strong then pressure against the locking mechanism opposing the lock can cause the lock to fail or if the notches are not deep enough (only seen on poorly designed lock backs).

2 hands are generally required to open the knife. Although it is possible for one handed opening.






* any poorly designed versions of 1) or 2) can also suffer unexpected closure.


***A quick note on Frame Locking knives.


I don't mention Frame Locks as I think this is a poor design compared to the above knife designs. I'll explain in another blog why but briefly, poor lock up first time, as it is vey difficult for manufactures to get the correct springiness within the same part of the knife which serves as part of the body of the knife. Also if manufacturers use materials for scales which do not possess good properties for springs and other smaller parts are required.   

I'll also say why the marketing guys have you believing otherwise.