Showing posts with label N690 stainless steel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label N690 stainless steel. Show all posts

Wednesday, 3 June 2020

Can the Extrema Ratio Giant Mamba make the grade of "Survival Knife"

Can the Extrema Ratio Giant Mamba make the grade of "Survival Knife"?


To answer the above question, we have to have a definition of what is expected of a knife in order to satisfy this "survival" thing. I've already made that definition in previous blogs here, so I'm not going to repeat it since I've written extensively about it.
Provided one has the knowledge in order to facilitate theirs or others survival chances, which is ones "primary survival tool" ie a cool brain, then having dependable equipment with you: which maybe the right clothing; proper shelter/tent; medical equipment; drinking water and or food, maybe your best survival tools. 

A knife may not be necessary but would not go astray under certain situations. For example: where any cutting of objects is required (food preparation-not totally necessary but things can go a lot smoother and be less stressful with one); cutting vines to extract water; gutting animals; signalling for help by using a reflective blade surface to attract the attention of those in the distance, too far to yell at or whistle; the list goes on. However, the impractical use of a "Survival knife" and often romanticised : such as strapping it to a stick in order to fend off a charging Grizzly bear or Lion; defending oneself against hostile humans; smashing through concrete walls to escape your captors; killing big poisonous snakes etc., are far less likely scenarios. Where did I get those scenarios from? YouTube of course, which is overflowing with experts on this subject, apparently. Sorry if I sound sarcastic, I meant to sound sarcastic! I want to market the "survival jacket": Radiation proof, waterproof (of course, it goes without saying); gas proof; bullet proof (small arms only-to keep it light enough) and folds up into my back pocket!

But seriously, where does one need a "survival knife"? Firstly, such a knife should be just as reliable as the tent you plan to shelter in; the clothing upon your back; your backpack and the boots and or shoes you are wearing. I came across trekking in the Himalayas once a guy (a foreigner/tourist) whose boot soles (one of them) had come unglued quite some days away in any direction from buying new boots. He had fashioned with climbing tapes and gaffer tape (where he obtained the gaffer tape I have no idea)- but that was resourceful; a makeshift binding which sort of held the sole to the boot just so he could walk over such rough terrain. Chances of picking up another pair of boots if they fail, not likely in such a situation. I never found out the reason for the failure but at least he was able to improvise and get mobile.

With clothing, you can usually do this (improvise), even fashion some "sunglasses" from a bit of plastic or cardboard with slits cut into them. (though better to carry 2 pairs at high altitude, I did this once and while I never needed my second pair, they did come in handy for someone who had their only pair broken (an experienced ice climber- yes it can happen to anyone and we must always check ourselves). When I was about twenty- boy that was along time ago LOL, I couldn't afford a Gortex jacket like some of my uni counterparts (they were older than me actually- and had good part time jobs); I walked with a metre and a half of waterproof canvas (synthetic) which came from a company my dad was hauling goods for at one point. A straight cut in the middle and yeah (I hadn't seen it at the time) a RAMBO poncho! It sort of worked but if that killer rainstorm we got caught in once, didn't happen in the Summer (it was warm rain) I may have become a liability for not going into the wilds with the proper gear.

Now a knife of some sort is a little different because it may be impossible to repair in the field and or be rendered unsafe to use or dangerous to use in the worst case scenario. Or if you lose one then it maybe impossible to get/make  another. 

However, something as simple as loosing a scabbard: it got accidentally dropped into a fast flowing river, GONE! If it is not possible to make a makeshift scabbard then carrying an open/unprotected blade might increase your chances of getting injured at some point. Of course this can be avoided by keeping your knife scabbard strapped to your belt ALL THE TIME and pocket knives with lanyard holes are better than ones that don't have them because you can secure that knife to yourself before dropping it into a bottomless pit! That also means a lanyard hole on the fixed blade knife of choice as well. No lanyard hole, no "survival knife" or no way to securely tie a cord to the knife, no "survival knife" even if it's a knife around your neck. 

That brings me to the point of "neck knives". I own them and NEVER carry them around my neck. It's a great way to stab yourself and or become a liability. I think they can be a great and useful knife, however not around your neck. This trend and it is a trend, comes from all of these, yes you guessed it, YouTube videos showing people with neck knives defending themselves against would be attackers etc. Have I ever taken a "neck knife" into remote areas? No. Better to take a reliable folder and a medium to large fixed blade, or a reliable multitool and a medium to large (large I mean up to 7") fixed blade, or a multitool and a machete if in the tropics. Why a multitool? Well unless you are naked, then you will probably have stuff with you, on you that a multitool can be an invaluable piece of equipment to have in order to make repairs, service devices such as fishing gear/rifles etc.


Does a "survival knife" need a strong thick tip? No it doesn't. It can't hurt but it isn't totally necessary if one treats their gear with respect. The Giant Mamba has a tip which comes close to that of the Extrema Ratio ONTOS. So where would such a tip be useful? Well, I'd say on long remote coastal hikes where you might find yourself prying apart wild food stuffs (easy to find in Australia) or prying Abalone off the rocks. Busting or prying apart (I hate to say pallets washed up on beaches for fire wood-make sure it's untreated wood!). A thick tip usually means a thick spine and this could be good cracking open the shells of crabs and lobsters and coconuts. 

Sure, rocks can also work. A thick tip can come in use when working with coconuts (if of course you aren't carrying a machete/parang or the like being more suited to the task at hand). Prying open bits of tree trunk looking for grubs to use as fish or bird bait. Using that thickened tip to twist a divot for a fire bow drill (last resort for light a fire in my book-just too much effort). Going through joints of meat, no chance the tip will break. What about skinning with such a knife? Well that depends upon what technique one is used to. For me, I like to start with several cuts but do the main job with my hands as there is zero chance of damaging the skin from an accidental nick, so from this perspective I'm not at a total loss if I don't use a dedicated hunting knife, although, of course a dedicated hunting knife will be more useful for such work and certain hunting knife designs make excellent "survival knives" and "camping knives" IMHO.

I probably wouldn't take this model on remote trips in montane regions but more likely tropical and or coastal areas and as I just said above, I'd prefer to take a hunting knife hunting. Been there done that with various non hunting knives (just to test this out)  and it can be done but is/was a real pain. Talking of tropical, I like the idea of having a western styled or modified Tanto because one can usefully affix the knife to a pole of some sort in order to cut coconuts out of trees. Sure you can climb the tree but it could be risky if you're not used to it.

So yeah, depends upon your skill level with any particular blade but I wouldn't fret too much if this was the only blade I had with me on an uninhabited island!


What are the advantages Vs disadvantages of not having any guards?

 Advantages of no guard  Disadvantages of no guard/s
 Given knife will be slightly lighter in construction. Possible to bang up ones fingers during cutting or chopping against
flat surfaces. 
 Easy to place index finger or thumb atop of spine for better blade control during fine tasks. Can not wrap fingers around guard/s in order to obtain a more secure grip of the knife.
 Usually but not always better comfort and can not chafe hands if not present, especially if hands are wet. lack of Guard/s can't offer any light/slight protection against fish spines.
 Less likely to get caught up on things- knife handle more finger friendly. Guards can be used to help secure a blade for many purposes (one NOT being making a spear!)
 I don't believe guards really stop ones hands from slipping accidentally onto the blade. I've never encountered this  on any non guarded knife I own.Converse argument, the guards can prevent ones fingers/hand slipping onto the blade. 
 You can't have a Modified Tanto with a guard, otherwise it wouldn't be a Tanto or Wakizashi (for design only) Handle material could be damaged?
 Doesn't look so "Military" That's the disadvantage!



BTW I measured with some accuracy the depth of the Fullers on this Giant Mamba blade and it is approximately 0.7mm on each side, not a huge removal of steel, maybe just a few grams in total.

Now remember, there is no such thing as a "universal knife" just like there is no such thing as a surfboard good for all conditions and this follows that there is no such thing as a universal survival knife. Like I said, take the appropriate tool for the trip/job.


Extrema Ratio Giant Mamba in the wilds!





Tuesday, 16 July 2019

Jesper Voxnaes Design FOX Knives FX-606 OD

FX-606 CORE black version (Image courtesy of FOX Knives Italy)

FX-606 CORE Olive green Drab version (Image courtesy of Fox Knives Italy) It is this model which I will discuss below.

The FOX CORE FX-606, fixed blade Scandi grind is an economic small hunting style knife with a no nonsense moulded polypropylene (PP) and thermo-rubber otherwise known as TPE-thermoplastic Elastomers; grip-easy clean water resistant (and lanyard hole) and comes with a deep carry synthetic (ballistic nylon), hard plastic and leather scabbard (belt carry); there is also a drain hole. 


Deep carry synthetic (heavy denier Ballistic Nylon) and leather construction;  rugged scabbard, featuring a traditional belt carry loop.



The Rockwell is stated at HRC 57-58 (easy to resharpen). The design is by the well-known Danish knife designer JESPER VOXNAES (pronounced like "VOXNESS").




Fox Knives FX-606 Core fixed blade (Scandi version) featuring BECUT Niobium enhanced steel

The FX-606 CORE features a full tang which has two key ways towards the back end for the handle material to grip. (see diagram below). The lanyard hole as can be seen also passed through the tang.


Dimensioned diagram of the FX-606 CORE (Image courtesy of Fox Knives Maniago, Italy.)




 The FOX CORE is a WORKING KNIFE!

Hard and dirty beech wood no problems for the edge of this knife featuring BECUT alloy.




The CORE of the CORE*!

BECUT steel alloy: What is this???
The FX-606 FOX CORE, (Scandi grind) is made with the German produced alloy, BECUT. BECUT is a Niobium (0.8%) enhanced high carbon (0.7%) stainless steel, whereby the inclusion of Niobium achieves some interesting characteristics in this alloy. It has been produced by the Bestar Steel Group (Germany), since 1992. Becut was originally made for industrial kitchen blades and later used in industrial blades for deep sea fishing.

BECUT alloy elemental composition: C~0.7%; Cr~14.5%; Mo~1.9%; V~0.6%; Nb~0.8%; Si~0.55%

The presence of Niobium (Nb) confers excellent edge retention due to the formation of fine grained NbC (Niobium carbides) and a high degree of flexibility even at low temperatures. The Molybdenum (Mo) confers a good resistance to corrosion. Overall, Becut also has a high level of toughness, also as a result of the addition of Nb due to a very fine grain/(crystal size). Finally, the Becut alloy has been approved for contact with foodstuffs.

Becut is perfect for incorporation into hunting style blades, where the edge can and often does come into contact with abrasive bone, skin/hair and or fish skeletons.

It goes without saying this no nonsense grip is extremely comfortable in ungloved hands and is designed for wet work and is basically a service free grip.


The FX-606 Core features a comfortable palm swell as seen in the above image.

* reference Data obtained from the Bestar Steel Group


Performance
Despite being a small knife, the FX-606 Core has a very sturdy blade design. The spine thickness is the same right to the tip, so yes, the tip is thick but of course deadly sharp. There is zero fear that the tip will falter when plunged between joints when deboning. Plus I tested it by thoroughly boring the tip into a beech log; LOL-you'll see it in the video field review coming soon.
At home in the wilds, the FX-606 Core (a Jesper Voxnaes design VOX)


The VOX Core by Fox knives, FX-606 will make a trusty companion on day hikes, hunting trips and short term camping. The excellent edge retention due to the presence of NbC in the alloy is a key feature of the Becut alloy along with great toughness.

No nonsense maintenance free thermoplastic polymer handle, easily washed clean and features a palm swell and ergonomic all day comfortable shape. Grip is provided via the "scale-like pattern" in the moulding.

Bestar's Becut Niobium enhanced stainless steel really holds an edge. That's no surprise as Becut was being used as an industrial cutting alloy in the food and fishing industry for many years and now we see it being introduced in outdoor knives designed to be "real work horses" such as this Core model FX-606. The wood shown here is seasoned Beech!

So far, I driven the tip of this knife into seasoned Beech, twisting it in an effort to blunt it, cut up processed meats and used it to cut wild mushrooms and struck it with a baton to split wood. ALL GOOD!


Cutting meat off the bone no problems, raw or cooked.

There is a "full range" of Core models all made with becut; Scandi and sabre grind, choice of handle colors. See here:

Stick around and I'll show and tell more in the upcoming video field review on BushCampingTools.



Sunday, 14 July 2019

FKMD RIMOR FX-9CM07 SURVIVAL Multi-Purpose BIG KNIFE

FKMD RIMOR FX-9CM07 OD

FOX Knives Maniago Italy.
FKMD FX-9CM07 OD RIMOR Knife- In the field



The FKMD RIMOR  (FX-9CM07 OD)
(OD= Olive Drab referring to color of the grip) there is also the stone wash version see here: or see the black Idroglider version here:



The FKMD RIMOR rocks! (The name RIMOR comes from the Latin, roughly translating: "Explorer"). Now I'm going to tell you why I think the FKMD RIMOR rocks!
Hacking into seasoned hardwoods with the FX-9CM07 OD RIMOR isn't a problem because the weight distribution is spot on!

Idroglider coating makes good sense on a knife that 6mm thick. It's no good if you stick a knife into something and you have to apply a crazy force to retrieve it. For example into springy hardwoods.


Firstly, the design originates from the internal production team within Fox Knives. A large BUT not big, almost spear point, with a good belly starting approximately midway along the cutting edge. 
A slick design for a 17.5cm long blade. As you may know, this is in MHO, a great length for an outdoor knife outside of tropical regions.

The edge has been bevel ground and it is a large bevel, greater than 1mm. The overall lateral blade geometry is that of a sabre grind. 

Finger choil and thumb/forefinger gimping present. 
There are some added advantages (other than frictionless cutting ability) I believe for using Idroglider as a coating; it simply "feels better" against the fingers. The finger/thumb gimping is generous and well placed for non-slip intricate work.


The spine swedge starts approximately midway.
The spine swedge starts approximately 7mm past the  first letter "R" as in the Rimor


The usual 2 fixing bolts securing a fibre reinforced nylon  (FRN) handle which like many of their tactical designs, totally encompasses the tang. Therefore this knife can be used in ungloved hands at sub zero temperatures without fear of freezing one's paws onto an exposed tang. There is nothing to say about the tang strength either. Bast2a (of course this is Bastinelli!) proved unquestionably in his crazy video by running a large van over an angled FKMD knife (some 9 years ago) featuring the same tang and guess what? The knife did not break!
The fibre reinforced Nylon (FRN) composition FOX knives are using  for this handle, provides a very secure grip, even when swinging this hefty blade, wet or dry hands and good shock absorption.
The over moulded FRN grip is secured via 2 T15 Torx bolts. If the bolts are removed, the handle is still very hard to remove easily and I treat this as really a moulded grip with added security of the two bolts. Being a coated blade means little tang maintenance.


Blade coating and options

The coating on the FKMD RIMOR is Teflon based: known as "Idroglider". Idroglider is a proprietary name for a water based formula containing Teflon. Idroglider is a thermosetting compound made by the Italian company Mondial Color. I have many, many years experience with this material, when used as a coating on metal surfaces, such as knives. I can say without a doubt it can handle severe abuse, as in abrasion resistance and provides a very low friction surface. 



**Note however, no where on the Mondial site (the makers of Idroglider) does it suggest or otherwise indicate that Idroglider is a food safe product. I'm still waiting or them to get back to me with something here. if this is something which concerns you then better get the stoned washed model.
The FKMD FX-9CM07 OD has a Rockwell C of 58-60 what this means in practical terms is that cutting up dirty objects like these mushrooms, (grass, fibrous material, small stones, dirt, sticks etc) will not easily blunt the blade.

Realistic Cutting performance

The Idroglider coating and the deadly sharp edge of the FX-9CM07 OD made cutting these wild oyster mushrooms a breeze. To cut mushrooms without making a colossal mess, the knife mush be very sharp and the blade behind the cutting edge not too thick, otherwise there is too much drag; a good test of cutting performance in the real world, not this A4 paper cutting stuff, of which even blunt scissors can do, is to cut cleanly mushrooms! Ordinarily, there are special knives for cutting mushrooms. They have thinner blades than most but can such a large knife perform these tasks? Answer: YES!


Cutting wild oyster mushrooms, no problems even for such a big knife due to a good edge geometry.

Preparing to take loads of birch bark for fire starting material.

FKMD Rimor (FX-9CM07 OD) in the forest.


Böhler's N690 Corrosion Resistance at HRC58-60

So why coat a stainless steel blade like N690? Well despite being a stainless steel, Böhler's N690, will show signs of corrosion when subjected to saltwater and dirty fresh water for lengthy periods and whilst I have found this to be minimal and just surface discolouration, the coating with Idroglider totally prevents this from happening. The FKMD RIMOR FX-9CM07 OD is also offered as a "stone washed" finish and if one is never going to be constantly subjecting their knife to immersion, then I'd recommend the uncoated version-that is unless one wants to achieve a more "covert" anti-glare solution, and then certainly the non-reflecting Idroglider surface coating would then be one's choice.
Working in and around water is no problem for Böhler's N690 stainless steel and also added corrosion resistance from the Idroglider coating!

Remembering too that the higher the Rockwell hardness the less Chromium is available in solid solution for corrosion resistance and in this case FKMD/FOX Knives is producing  product with a final HRC of: 58-60.

The Idroglider finish compared with ceramic coatings, provides a better (IMHO) feeling and not as "rough" to touch. This may be obvious as it's a TEFLON coating and hence it will "feel good" to touch.


The FKMD RIMOR This knife immediately caught my attention immediately, simply because of the balance of the blade design.

There is an ever so slight curvature to the cutting edge. This curvature will always aid in cutting motion which describes an arc. The logic behind the scythe (albeit an exaggerated curvature compare to this knife). Since the curvature is only slight one can still cut  up things against a surface which isn't flat. let face it, you aren't going to chopping up food on a chopping board in the wilds but rather a fallen tree of which the profile will be slightly rounded. 
An ever so slight blade curvature can be seen here where i hold the knife upside down. This in fact can provide better cutting of objects on logs/branches etc and yet still afford good cutting of loose fibrous materials, such as grasses, reeds etc.

The FKMD RIMOR isn't too long. At 17.5cm blade length (as measured from the end of the grip to the knife tip, it fits into the "just right" length IMHO. Also because of the design, the actual cutting surface is also 17.5cm! (I measured it). 


17.5cm cutting surface! FKMD FX-9CM07 OD (Mushroom; edible Boletus!)
Not too big for the BBQ in the bush! FX-9CM07 OD

Often when manufacturers quote the blade length, this can be quite distinct from the actual cutting length (as is a shorter cutting length- not so here, which is great!).


Perfect knife balance is achieved at a fulcrum position from a vertical line passing through the ending of the spine gimping.
A line drawn from the tip to the middle of the lanyard hole basically passes through the centre of the handle for the maximum capacity to deliver power to the tip in a thrusting action.



Lashing points (3 in total)
The deep belly will work well in processing medium to large game with this knife. Since there is a swedge, the FKMD will be good for penetrative tasks, piercing hides, fish skin, penetrating plastics (flotsam jetsam).  An effective knife must have a good tip.
3 lashing points for extending cutting reach!


The FKMD FX-9CM07 OD RIMOR features plenty of pounding surface for using a baton if that is your desire.
Plenty of pounding surface area on the spine for use of a baton

Levering objects, as apposed to using a knife as a pry bar.

The FKMD Rimor sports the proven grip of so many of FOX cutlery/FKMD knife models, it needs no introduction. However, I will give a brief one for those who have yet to encounter it.
The grip is almost looks like it has been over moulded onto the tang but it hasn't. It is made via injection moulding and then affixed to the tang via two Torx head socket bolts. This type of grip simply fits the fingers in a generalised ergonomic design, ie there are finger and thumb indents where one's digits would naturally come to rest.

We now see the use of FRN (Fibreglass reinforced nylon) for the chosen grip material. FRN, if you are unfamiliar with its properties, one of which is the only one needed to know, and that is, it is basically indestructible in terms of mechanical strength, (as an aside, and now FRN is being 3D printed by some manufacturers) into parts which are stronger than Aluminium (6061-T) on a weight per weight basis!)
FRN will really take a beating.
FRN is available in many formulations and the one FKMD are using is very tactile both with wet or dry hands. The FX-9CM07 OD is NOT handle heavy, which is great for extended comfort.


Steel of Choice

Böhler's N690 (N69Zero) is the choice of the stainless. This high speed cobalt enhanced stainless tool steel is appearing to be the European norm for high quality knife manufacturing. excellent corrosion resistance and able to take a high hardness with good edge holding and zero chipping performance in real world conditions. N690 is also able to take various coating materials, from PVD, Ceramic and Teflon based coatings such as seen here with the use of Mondial's Idroglider coating.

Now to the blade design of the FKMD RIMOR


Having a finger choil on a big knife makes sense if you want some fine control abilities.
It is a broad blade with a big swedge. 

There are no holes anywhere near a fulcrum point on this blade- makes for a strong blade.

Lashing holes for extended cutting tasks (honey retrieval, fungus retrieval, _notice I don't advocate tying the knife to a pole to make a spear- this is only for the movies). Cutting down out of reach fruit, coconuts etc. (see how I did this with my trusty FKMD Panabas).


The apparent "spear point" design enables good penetrative capabilities and the "belly" allows for use skinning game along with good control via the finger choil.


The Scabbard/carry system


The retention  strap can pivot. This is an important feature which prevents the knife from severing this strap when it it withdrawn from the scabbard. It also means the knife can be withdrawn with either left hand or right handed people.


Full Molle compatibility (sheath seen here detached from waist loop.
The sheath of the Rimor is a big improvement over the sheath of the Parus. At first glance these sheaths look similar but the sheath of the RIMOR has proper welt stitching, ie sandwiched between the two halves of the scabbard is a tough rubber-like insert. This insert will prevent the cutting edge from contacting the stitching and eventually severing it. This is great. However, the rubber material, whatever type it is they are using has this terrible chemical smell. I tried washing the scabbard but the smell remains. What this does is make the blade smell too. I found this quite strange, as I would have thought that the Idroglider coating would not absorb anything due to it being Teflon based. It's easy to remove the smell, simply wash the blade and it is gone**. That's something to remind myself of BEFORE cutting up raw meat or any food stuffs with this knife in this scabbard. It's not a negative but something which could be further improved upon.

** UPDATE 3-10-2019

I did further tests and found that after removing the knife which really stinks of this chemical, overnight out of the scabbard, the blade still smells just like the rubber material. This tells me that whatever this chemical odour is, it has been effectively absorbed into the Idroglider coating. I will be reporting this to Fox knives and would at this time recommend the use of the non coated blade for food preparation.

The sheath can be worn either on a belt in a traditional style carry position, 


Traditional belt carry and also Molle vest/pack.

or rapidly detached via a quality UTX Dura Flex (they are using genuine Dura Flex buckles too) quick release buckle system. Once detached the knife and scabbard can be quickly mounted in a Molle compatible system on a pack or vest etc. Although, the top Molle loop can not be accessed by the Molle strap (there is not enough flexibility in this rigid strap due to the position of the stitching (it's not a problem, just an observation). 



Attachment to a Molle system after detaching the scabbard via the genuine Dura Flex buckle system.

Because the scabbard is symmetrical, the knife can be placed for either left or right handed users. The scabbard Molle strap is very rigid, which is a good thing. There is also a metal grommeted drain hole on the back side of the sheath and a leg tie in loop sewn into the sheath; for multiple carry options.


The inside of the scabbard has hard plastic liners too to aid the longevity of the scabbard.
The black Idroglider coating is very hard wearing and helps protect the steel from unwanted corrosion especially if working around/in water a lot.





Ok that's enough for now to whet your appetite!



 Field Review Now ready here: at BushCampingTools!